Simone Rocha

Moncler Genius handed the house to a rotating set of designers in numbered chapters, and Rocha took the fourth. Her first collection landed on 20 September 2018 and started from Victorian women who climbed mountains in full Victorian dress: down in red, pink, ivory and pearl-set black, sequinned florals, hiking boots with faux-fur tongues and bags built out of climbing harnesses. A later chapter in May 2020 went to dance, drawing on Pina Bausch, Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker and Fellini. It replaced the runway with a film Petra Collins shot with professional dancers.

The twenty tracks run for an hour and a half, almost all choral music or strings. The list moves through Max Richter’s November played by Mari Samuelsen, Daniel Hart, Laurie Anderson’s O Superman, the Lacrymosa from Mozart’s Requiem sung by Westminster Cathedral Choir, Anna von Hausswolff and Zbigniew Preisner. Studio Frédéric Sanchez handles the sound for Rocha’s own runway.